I
need some tips on house training my Yorkshire Terrier puppy. Should I paper train,
crate train, or what?
|
Housebreaking a toy dog is not difficult
but a job that most people seem to have difficulty at. I can assure you
that if you were housebreaking a Great Dane, you would watch the dog like
a hawk cause it's no longer a puddle -- It's a lake!
TEN COMMANDMENTS
OF HOUSEBREAKING |
1) THOU
SHALT NOT BRING HOME A PUPPY OR ADULT DOG AND EXPECT IT TO KNOW
IMMEDIATELY WHERE THE POTTY IS. Every time they move from one home
to another they need to be taught where to go.
2)
THOU SHALT NOT EXPECT A YOUNG PUPPY OF 8-16 WEEKS TO BE HOUSEBROKEN.
That's like expecting a one year old child to be completely potty
trained -- It just AIN'T GONNA HAPPEN.
3) THOU SHALT NOT
ALLOW THE NEW PUPPY TO MAKE ALL OVER THE HOUSE AND RUN LOOSE
AND THEN WONDER WHY THE DOG GOES BACK TO THE SAME SPOT TO MAKE. You
will have to disinfect the house thoroughly where he has done his
business. White vinegar in the water will help neutralize the
smell because he WILL GO BACK to the spot that smells.
4)
THOU SHALT NOT YELL AT THE PUP (DOG) WHEN HE/SHE GOES IN THE
WRONG SPOT. Better than yelling, you need to just clean it up
thoroughly and put the dog where he is supposed to go. Dogs and most
animals learn much better by the PRAISE AND REWARD system.
5) THOU SHALT NOT KEEP THE YOUNG PUPS 6 MONTHS OR YOUNGER
CONFINED FOR LONG PERIODS OF TIME. They are too young until at least
6 months to hold it for that long. Take them out to
make frequently and generously praise and reward them for
going where you want them to.
6) THOU SHALT NOT PUT A
LONG HAIRED TOY DOG OUT IN THE RAIN TO MAKE UNLESS YOU WANT TO USE A
HAIR DRYER WHEN THEY COME BACK IN. To do so could cause a
chill and tonsilitis and/or tracheobronchitis.
7)
THOU SHALT NOT EXPECT AN UN-NEUTERED OR UN-SPAYED DOG TO HAVE PROPER
POTTY MANNERS. It is only nature telling them (boys and
girls) to leave calling cards and scents for the other sex to
notice. Chin up, if they were goats, they would constantly PEE on
their heads to make themselves attractive to the opposite sex.
8) THOU SHALT HAVE A POTTY PLACE GATED OFF FOR YOUR
YOUNG PUPPY AT LEAST UNTIL 6 MONTHS OF AGE. It's unrealistic to
expect a young puppy to be completely trained until then.
9)
THOU SHALT SPEND A LOT OF TIME WATCHING THE DOG WHEN THE DOG IS NEW
TO THE HOUSE TO CORRECT BAD HABITS BEFORE THEY START.
10)
THOU SHALT READ THESE COMMANDMENTS INSTEAD OF BEING ANGRY AT THE DOG
AND MEND YOUR WAYS. A dog wants nothing more than to please
you. |
There are two
methods of potty training, and if the weather where you live is not too
harsh, it's okay to train them to go outside, if they're old enough....at
least 5-6 months....if not, then you may want to consider Litter Box
Training.
CRATE TRAINING
Cages are cruel
Not true. A crate is an indoor dog house,
just big enough for the dog to stand up and lie down, and turn around in.
It's your dog's den, home and place where your dog can feel safe. When you
go shopping, or when your pup is very young, it's a good place to keep him
out of trouble, however, don't expect a very young puppy to stay in there
for really long periods of time. Keep the time crated to short intervals
and extend them a little at a time as the pup gets older. They cannot be
expected to hold their water for 8-16 hours at a time when just a young
baby. Take this into consideration when your pup is very young and if you
must be gone for an extended period of time, then leave the door open and
keep a place outside the crate where the puppy is allowed to make on
papers or on a piddle pad in an exercise pen or puppy play pen. The crate
is the dog's "space" in the house. This should be a place where your puppy
feels safe. It's his house. He should be made to feel secure in his house
and he can sleep while his owners do what they must do, run errands, etc.
When you return in a few hours, your dog will not have destroyed the house
and it will be a happy reunion. Honest, he'll love his crate and will
probably just go to sleep, and you will not come home to "destruction,"
chewed cords and windowsills, etc.
How long can puppy stay in there?For a few hours while
you go shopping or overnight in the crate next to your bed so you can
sleep without worrying about what the pup is up to. If you are going to be
gone for a longer period of time, you should get a pet gate and confine
the dog to a gated area, where he cannot pull lamps off tables or get at
any electrical cords, like in a utility room, or a kitchen. Sometimes
there is a covered secure spot in your yard if the weather is good like a
deck or fenced in area where the dog can play without escaping, and where
no one can get in and steal him! Having a place to keep your dog away from
small children is a blessing your dog will appreciate.
Your dog needs
to interact with you. Never tie them up or leave them out on the deck or
yard for too long without being there to talk to them and interact with
them. Dogs are a social animal and need this contact. They need to feel
that they are a part of the family, and that means being in the house,
even when the family may not be in the house. If you deprive your dog of
that feeling of belonging and being part of the family, it can do great
psychological damage to him and he can become neurotic or psychotic.
Problems with digging, fence jumping and barking are just a few of the
ways neurosis can manifest itself.
It's deplorable to buy a dog and
chain them outside all the time because you're too tired, busy, or lazy to
train them. You must invest some time and lots of praise to have a canine
companion that will be devoted to you for a lifetime. It's worth the time
you will invest. When the dogs are young, they all go through destructive
behavior and most of them outgrow it and eventually you will feel safe
leaving him alone in the house. Please remember that if you allow the dog
to "go" all over the house when he first comes to your home, he will go
back to where he smells it. Normally, a dog will not urinate or defecate
where he sleeps, because then he would have to lie next to it. Crates
aren't cheap, but sometimes you can pick up one second-hand without having
to put out a lot of money, in the classified or at yard sales. Buying a
Crate: Most pet shops, dog shows, or kennel supply houses carry crates.
The price depends on where you purchase the crate and the size of the dog.
You will probably spend anywhere from $40 to $60 for a crate, but it will
last for a lifetime. The Fiberglass or Plastic ones are easier to keep
clean as they won't rust like wire crates, and they aren't as noisy as the
wire collapsible crates are, and considering that this is the safest way
for your dog to travel, you've bought him his "dog house" and "car seat"
in one package.
Your dog's crate should be just big enough for him to
stand up, lie down and turn around in. no bigger. The reason for this is
so that he can't piddle in one corner and sleep in the opposite corner.
This teaches the dog control.
How do I know what size crate to get?Just stand the dog
next to the crate if he is full grown and make sure the crate extends
about 4 inches above the shoulders and four inches each side and from
front and back of the dog. Big enough for him to turn around in and lay
down in. If he's a puppy, you'll have to estimate his full grown size and
then place a cardboard box in there to make it just comfortable for him
and keep changing the size of the box as he grows. Some brand names of
plastic dog crates are: Vari-Kennel, Kennel Cab and Sky Kennel.
Where is the best place to put the crate?The busiest room
in the house, wherever the family congregates.
He keeps crying when in the crate, now what?Most dogs
hate being confined in the beginning, but with a little time to realize
they will not be in there forever, your dog will love the peace and safety
of his crate. If he cries, just tap the crate and say "No, Quiet now!" in
a firm voice. Keep repeating this and don't give in!! Puppies cannot be
expected to go for long periods of time without relieving themselves, so
you have to make the time confined for short periods and praise the puppy
for going in the crate and give him a treat when he goes in willingly. If
he doesn't, then just give him a push into the crate and then a treat and
a "good boy" verbal command and shut the door. After he is quiet in the
crate for a few minutes, come back and open the door and allow him to go
use the bathroom spot outside of his crate or wherever you expect him to
relieve himself. Make sure the exercise area is sturdy enough that he
cannot knock it down.
As the puppy gets older, he will be able to
"hold it" longer and by 6 months should be able to spend an entire night
without having to relieve himself.
Be sure to let the puppy relieve
himself before you shut him in the crate for the night. DO NOT let the
puppy out when he is crying!! If you do, you have just taught the puppy he
can get his way by being vocal. Always wait until the puppy is quiet
before you let him out of his crate. There is an exception to that rule,
and that is when you get home after the puppy has been in the crate for a
while. The excitement of your return will make your puppy need to "go" so
you should take him immediately to the designated "spot" and praise him
exuberantly when he does his thing. Do this same thing in the morning,
after he has been crated at night. Crate training the Adult dog is a
little harder but patience, persistence, and a set of ear plugs should get
you through this. Put his bed and toys into the crate and throw in a treat
that he loves, and tell him "bedtime" or "crate time." Tell him how
wonderful he is for going "in the crate." Play with him for a minute and
then close the door when he is comfortable in the crate. Do this a few
times and use the same command each time. Put him in there if he refuses
and praise him for going to the crate...Good Boy! Keep repeating this
command and getting him in the crate until he realizes he will get a
reward for going in the crate and eventually you will let him out. You
must be consistent. Once the dog will go in there on command, and you can
leave him there for a few minutes without crying, you can increase the
amount of time that he is in the crate, a little bit more each time.
Always be sure he has been to the "potty" before crating. With small dogs,
it's sometimes easier in the beginning to put them in the crate at eye
level at night, like on your bed stand night table.
Taking TripsNow that your dog is crate trained, it will
be easier to take him along on trips, and he will handle the stress of
being shipped if necessary and will be carried safely in a vehicle. You
can leave your dog in the hotel room without worry that the maid might
come in and accidentally allow your dog to "take off," and being used to
being in the crate, the dog will sleep while you are gone.
What can I do to help my new puppy adjust
to our house? |
1. Set up a schedule and follow it
consistently. ALWAYS feed, walk, socialize, put out to make, etc., your
dog at the same time. Like the rest of us, dogs feel much more comfortable
if they know what to expect. Follow this schedule for at least 4 to 6
months, as it will take the dog some time to feel "at home".
2. Be
consistent. Not just with the schedule, but with everything you do with
your dog. Decide on the rules the dog will live by and then stick to those
rules. Dogs learn much more quickly and behave much better if you are
consistent in your actions and expectations.
Consistency must start
the minute you get the dog home. Everyone in the household needs to agree
on the rules for the dog, how those rules will be taught and how they will
be enforced. This means that you will need to be prepared for the dog
BEFORE he comes home. Be fair to the dog -- don't get him on the spur of
the moment. Be ready for him. Dogs don't just walk in the front door and
say to themselves "Oh...there's the potty". They need to be trained where
to relieve themselves even if they are already housebroken. A new house
means new rules and you MUST TEACH HIM the rules.
3. Don't get angry.
Anger doesn't teach -- it may be understood as a threat or a challenge by
the dog. Either way, it doesn't lead to the desired response. Deal with
disobedience by using quick, matter-of-fact corrections. Don't get your
emotions involved. Many problem behaviors are not the result of the dog's
attempt "to get even" but rather a result of being bored, lonesome,
frightened or having learned to get attention by some undesirable means.
4. Pack leader. A leader is clear, concise, consistent. Dogs
understand and need to have a pack leader. If you don't assert your right
to that position the dog will naturally move into the leadership role.
That means that the sofa is his, the garbage is his, the Thanksgiving
turkey is his, and the new pair of shoes you just bought is his. In short,
he is in control. Leaders don't come when called. Leaders may bark when
and how long they want. Leaders may bite. Think about it.. Often
common behavior problems are caused by the dog's assertion of leadership
rights over at least some members of the family. If you are not familiar
with "pack leadership" as it pertains to the family dog and training, read
Is Herbert There? A Survival Guide for Pet Owners, by Animal Behavior
Consultant, Terry Jester.
5. Enroll in Training Classes. Training
classes help you communicate with your dog. Learning to obey when there
are lots of other dogs and people around helps build confidence in both
the dog and owner. Owners who work with their dogs find that the mental
exercise is just as important as physical exercise for keeping the dog
from becoming bored. It is a proven fact that people who put in the effort
to obedience train their dogs and maintain the training have fewer
problems with their dogs. An added bonus is the working bond that develops
between the dog and the owner when they spend time training together. Just
because you own a small dog doesn't mean that obedience training is
unnecessary. Do be sure that your instructor is mindful of the fact that
you have a small dog and separates the classes by sizes or at least moves
them separately in the classes until all the dogs are "under control".
6. Praise. Praise is the reward the dog receives for obeying your
command. There are some simple rules for giving praise/rewards: A)
Make the reward immediate. Praise delayed = praise denied. B) Reward
the dog only for obedience. He doesn't get any praise without earning it.
C) Praise should be short-term. Only a few seconds of patting is
enough. D) Don't use food as the primary type of reward.
7. Be
positive. Tell the dog what you want him to do instead of what you don't
want. It is easier for the dog to understand one positive command (like
"down") instead of a series of negative commands (don't chase the cat,
don't jump off on the sofa, don't bark). Being positive enforces the idea
that you are the leader because you give and enforce commands. A)
Giving commands gives definite direction. B) Obedience earns a reward
(praise) for the dog. C) It puts you in control.
8. Let him be a
dog. Enjoy him, train him, have fun with him. Do not expect him to make
decisions. That's your job -- you're the leader. Expect him to act like a
dog -- nothing more, but certainly nothing less. Dogs are intelligent,
energetic and very adaptable. Given the right training and being respected
for the qualities that have made them "man's best friend" for thousands of
years, dogs can become very good companions and valued members of the
household. Without training, proper care, or an understanding of how dogs
think, feel and react, these four-footed creatures can become problems to
both owner and neighborhood, and not give the pleasure that good training
can create.
Where can I get a
Yorkshire Terrier puppy and how do
I find a good breeder? |
Basically, breeders fit into six categories
and like every business there are levels of desirability. The Well Known
High Profile Professional, Well Known Professionals Who Exhibit and
Advertise regularly, Dedicated fanciers, who do little advertising and are
totally unconcerned about statistics, but regularly show up at Specialty
Shows and who also regularly exhibit and finish dogs to their
Championships generation after generation. Also there are the OK's,
Not-So-Hots, and "I'll do or say anything to make a Dollar" breeders. It
is important to stick with the first three groups and avoid the others.
First, it is important to distinguish between Professional Breeders
and "back yard" breeders or so called "kitchen" breeders. The
Professionals, be it hobby or commercial, make their living or part of
their living by raising, showing and selling dogs. They usually have many
years of study and experience in the art and science of creating the best
qualities in the breed they are selling. The "kitchen" breeder or "back
yard" breeder may breed their female once to show the kids how puppies are
born, or may mate little "Fifi" with the dog down the street with no
research or knowledge as to whether the animals or their pedigrees are
compatible. They just "make puppies", and usually offer no replacement
guarantee, etc. Like the professional, the dedicated fancier also
considers their reputation very important, has been in the same breed for
ten years or more and is probably into their third generation of the
breed. The fancier is not so much concerned about the price of the dog as
they are about the "placement" of the dog, regardless of the price.
However, make no mistake about it, dogs from the fancier will not be cheap
either considering the high cost of veterinary care and consultation these
days, as well as the high cost of quality food and other supplies. The
fancier doesn't care about making a profit, but would like to meet the
expenses of raising the dogs.
Although buying from a professional or
fancier offers no guarantee of getting a quality puppy, as all living
things mature differently, it typically is a lot safer than buying from an
amateur whose experience is limited to breeding their own dog once or
twice, like the "kitchen or back yard" breeders.
Finding a good
breeder or fancier is probably as hard as finding a good anything. They
are few and far between. However, since starting out with a well-bred dog
will spare you more problems and save you more money than you know, it is
always worth the time it takes to find one.
One rule of thumb is that
the more a breeder seems to want to sell you a dog, the faster you should
leave the premises. The best and most qualified breeders never "try" to
sell any dog. They are too busy deciding if you are good owner material.
These people are in it for the long term and take their business, be
it professional or hobby fancier, very seriously. They are not selling you
a "product". They are letting you adopt someone they love. They will know
each pup's name and the warm emotion in their voice as they describe each
distinct personality will assure you that your future pal has been well
taken care of, physically and emotionally.
Many breeders breed for
show champions and have no interest in a dog unless they can add to the
prestige and price of their breeding lines. They have been known to
practically kick dogs out of their facilities, and have too many dogs for
individual handling and attention; however, they may sell cheap just to
"get rid" of their breeding excess. I strongly advise against buying a
puppy or older dog from this kind of breeder because they are not really
interested in YOU, either. These people will try to wow you with a
list of titles and awards a mile long. Their prices may tend to be higher
than average if they want to prove to you that their dogs are something
special, or really cheap if its something they hate and want to "get it
out of there". If this latter breeder somehow feels like a "hype-job",
believe it and move on.
Also, it is a good idea to remember that just
because a dog is a show champion doesn't mean that he or she has the kind
of temperament that fits in well with family life. Very often, these dogs
have been neglected in household amenities, like paper training, or even
abused by handlers who have no business being handlers and MIGHT BE
temperamental nightmares. The most important thing for a prospective
owner to do is to learn everything they can about the breed they are
interested in and then go out "shopping". The more Dog Shows you attend
and Breeders you visit, the more you will appreciate the real thing when
you find it. Also be honest with the Breeders about your intentions. Don't
insist you only want a "pet" because you think that will be cheaper and
then moan and complain later because you did not get a dog that you can
"show and breed". AKC does offer the breeder an avenue of escape in the
"limited" registration of the PURE BRED DOG. You can register this dog but
no puppies from this dog can ever be registered with AKC unless the
Breeder applies to AKC to reverse the "limited" registration when the dog
reaches maturity.
Some basic things to look for as you visit Breeders
are: that the pups and their surroundings are clean; how many puppies
there are-- the more the merrier; at least one, but preferably both of the
parents are on-site; there is a contract that spells out the breeder's
liability and a guarantee on health and temperament; the price is
competitive -- very expensive puppies are rarely worth it; don't rush it
-- you are choosing a potential member of the family; trust your gut
feelings. If it doesn't feel right, don't do it.
Don't take home a
puppy under twelve weeks of age. Let the breeder get a couple of
Immunization shots in that pup before you bring it home. Reputable
breeders will be happy to take a deposit on a pup and keep it for you
until twelve weeks. It will give your pup a better start. Don't meet your
breeder at a local parking lot, restaurant, or other meeting place. Insist
on seeing where your puppy lives. Remember that "one time" or so called
"kitchen" pet breeders may not ever breed their dog again so your chances
of getting your money back or a replacement puppy should something happen
to your puppy are limited if you are dealing with this kind of breeder.
Don't buy a puppy just to save it from a filthy life.. you're better off
turning those people in and letting the authorities deal with them! The
right dog and breeder for you is out there if you take the time to find
them.
YOUR FIRST SHOW AND BREEDING DOG
The same information
applies to shopping for your show dog as in the previous answer, except
that: You DO NOT want to CO OWN a SHOW DOG. This is probably the most
foolish way to purchase any dog and most especially a Show and Breeding
Dog. I could probably count on one hand the amount of Co-Ownerships that
reached an ending with both parties still "liking" each other; even less,
if you're looking for any Co-Ownerships that reached an ending with all
parties still admiring and respecting each other. You DO NOT want to buy a
show dog until after the second teething (6-7 mos) and preferably not
until ten months of age. You should also be sure that your bill of sale
has a guarantee in writing of how this will be handled if your dog
develops liver disease, L'egg Perthes, or any other disease which makes it
impossible for you to show or breed.
You are better off starting out
with a sound female from free whelping lines, preferably line bred,
however, it is perfectly alright to find a good sound breeding or show
bitch who is a result of an outcross breeding (that means where the
ancestors are not related) and breed her back into the lines that have the
characteristics you like in the breed. It is almost always to your
advantage to take the breeder's advice as to how she should be bred .
The very best bloodlines have some problems that must be weeded out.
In order to do an intelligent job of breeding, you must know where these
problems exist. Be very direct with the breeder from whom you buy your
foundation bitch and let them know that you want to know any problems up
front so you can form a healthy relationship and a good future in healthy,
beautiful and sound stock.
Be wary of the breeder who tells you they
NEVER HAD ANY PROBLEMS OF ANY KIND in their line. This person is probably
not being truthful, or else hasn't been breeding long enough to learn how
to cull their litters, do test breedings, and thus perfect their line.
Make notes of the Breeder's experience of problems encountered with
different dogs in the breed. After purchasing your bitch, you may find
other breeders who are willing to give their opinion on your bitch, but
don't expect them all to be perfectly honest with you. They may very well
be too intimidated to give their honest opinion, or envy may cloud their
judgement. The best way to get an honest opinion is to approach an AKC
breeder judge at a point show and ask them whether they believe your bitch
to be good enough to be bred or shown. Whether the answer is Yes or No,
ask what the good points of your bitch are as well as the flaws. Bear in
mind that this doesn't mean you have to search forever for the "perfect"
dog. Believe me, perfection doesn't exist. If you can know the faults or
eliminate them and thereby finish your dogs easily, you're better off
financially whether you take the dogs to show after show yourself or hire
a handler to do it.
It is my opinion that every breeder should know
just as much as any judge BEFORE they breed two animals. Doesn't it make
sense that you cannot eliminate faults if you don't know what they are?
Learn what a good front and a good rear is, and the reasons they develop
that way, and the faults within your breed so that you don't double up on
them.
Most Professional Handlers who have ten or more years experience
are very good at helping you to understand what is good and what is bad
about your dog. After all, if you do breed good dogs, they may get lucky
and be the one you select to show your dogs. All handlers really want good
dogs to show!
Some of the problems that have been coming up in Toys,
as well as other breeds are: L'egg Perthes, Liver shunt, PRA, bad bites,
luxation of the patellas, poor rear angulation, poor shoulder layback and
lay-on, low set tails, tubular bodies with no rib spring, no neck (usually
because of a poor lay-on of shoulders).
If any of these terms is a
mystery to you, then you're not yet ready to breed a male to a female. You
cannot breed good quality dogs if you do not know how to recognize
problems. Do some research and find out what these problems are so that
you can recognize them and not propagate them. Toys are not easy whelpers,
so if you are going to go to the trouble of breeding them, you might as
well start off with a chance of producing some enviable stock, from
free-whelping lines. Intensive and selective breeding and culling is used
by wise breeders to eliminate problems within any breed. Anybody can "make
puppies", but it takes serious planning and knowledge to improve a breed
and leave it better than you found it. You will reap the rewards of your
efforts.
There are some very good books written by dog judges that you
can read and thereby learn about movement and structure, i.e., The
Nicholas Guide to Dog Judging, by A.K. Nicholas and the Dog Judges
Handbook by Sari B. Tietjen.
My
Yorkshire Terrier puppy's ears are flopping down. Is there anything I
can do? |
It's perfectly normal for the ears to droop
during teething. However, the thickness of the ears is in the breeding and
if they are too thick, they may not come up. The ears should be trimmed on
the edge about halfway down each side, then use a clipper (the Wahl
clipper is available in your local Payless or other drug store, the kind
that is used to trim the hair on the back of the neck) with a surgical
blade, about halfway down front and back of each ear. This is usually
started at about four weeks but if your puppy's ears are still not up, you
must take off the hair, massage them regularly, say once a day, to keep
the circulation going and tape them as shown.
A dental absorber is a good
post...wrap some aerated Johnson & Johnson tape backwards so the
sticky side is out and insert on the base of the ear as support and wrap
more aerated tape as shown. Then tape a bridge between the ears with
3/4" 3M filament tape to hold them up, being careful they are in a natural
position. You can keep the ears taped for a week, but then even if they
haven't come loose, you must remove them and make sure the pups ears are
dry and clean. Whether they are up or not, leave them alone for a day or
two. Retape them if they fall again. Smell the ear and if there is an
odor, you may want to ask your veterinarian for some Tresaderm. An odor
could mean an ear infection and if the ear is odorous or looks swollen,
don't re-tape until you've corrected the situation or seen a Vet.
|
If you are taping the
ears on a litter of pups, please do separate those pups before you
do any taping. This is very important anyway as pups can "bully"
each other and those little needle teeth can be very painful.
Separating your pups at 7 weeks with a divider gives them a chance
to develop their own personality plus it encourages them to start
"bonding" with humans rather than become a "pack animal."
|
I have a 2 year old Yorkshire
Terrier with droopy ears. The hair has been
clipped but his ears never stood up. Is there any way of fixing it
now?
It's not too likely that they will stand up now, but it all
depends on how thick the ear leather is and whether the ear tissue is
broken. You can cut a brown stiff paper bag the shape of his ears and
using eyelash adhesive glue them to the inside of the ear. This will give
them support. Of course you'll have to keep the hair trimmed and massage
the ears every day two or three times for a few minutes. It doesn't hurt
to try.
How often should I bathe my
Yorkshire Terrier and what
shampoos, conditioners, and oils should I use? |
Yorkshire Terriers have a wash and wear coat. They are
a single coated dog and washing them every 7-10 days and using a good
cream rinse with a drop of oil, and spraying them with a "The Stuff" detangler as you blow them dry is all you'll have to do other than keeping
the ears trimmed on their feet, ears and around the rectum, and keeping
their nails short. Whenever you start grooming your dog, be sure the
dog has good footing, both in the grooming area and in the sink.....Drydek
or a bath mat will do. It's also very comforting to have warm towels from
the dryer to wrap your wet dog in after bathing.
You should never
brush a dry coat. Always use a bristle brush and a good moisturizer spray
in between baths. If the coat is badly matted, then finger separate and
spray a good detangler on the coat before you bathe the dog.
What immunizations are required
for my Yorkshire Terrier? |
My vet recommends that I give the Puppy
Shot at 6, 9, 12, and 16 weeks with no lepto. Lepto is a very painful part
of the shot and my vet recommends not giving it to toy dogs. The Rabies
Vaccine is given down on the side subcutaneously by the vet at 6 months.
There are occasional "bald spots" caused by allergic reactions to vaccines
so I don't suggest giving it on the top where it can be readily seen.
What's a good feeding regiment for
Yorkshire Terriers? |
I start the puppies off with Science Diet
Growth Small Bites dry and give moist meals of the same mixed with a
little Gerbers Strained Turkey Baby Food 2 x day....Zap in the microwave
for one minute (covered with water) let sit and soak for a couple of
minutes and feed warm. I leave dry food down all day and all night for
all my dogs but the adults have chosen to eat ONE Lamb and Rice. That's
what they like and so that's what I feed now for at least 6 years.
Should I consider breeding my
Yorkshire Terrier?
|
Before you consider breeding your
Yorkshire Terrier,
send the pedigree of your female to several well known and trustworthy
breeders. If possible go to a dog show and try to have the Yorkshire
Terrier judge
evaluate your puppy, to tell you if it is good enough to be bred.
Before breeding the male and female should be certifed free of
brucellosis. This is a standard test that your vet can do on the 5th day
of heat.
Most breeders don't insist on the male being certified as
free of brucellosis but it would not be unusual to expect the male to be
tested also before you breed to him.
There are many books available on
the trials and tribulations of breeding toy dogs, and I suggest that you
at least read one that lets you know what you're letting yourself in for
and also buy as many whelping videos as you can.
Then if you're still
interested, well that's where dedicated breeders come from!!
INBREEDING AND LINE-BREEDING Inbreeding consists of
the inter-mating of relatives, and it is virtually impossible to breed
pedigree stock of any kind without having some relationship somewhere.
Once a breed is established, it is impossible to breed a male and female
within this breed without finding some ancestors in common. It may be so
far back that you can't trace them, but by inbreeding these common
ancestors, your breed was formed.
Most breeders consider "outcrossing"
as breeding stock who are completely unrelated in the last six
generations. This is as far as most breeders trace their stocks' ancestry,
unless they have personally linebred for a longer period of time.
"Line-breeding" is considered to be merely a mild or less intense form
of inbreeding. Mating of distant cousins, or mating dogs who come from the
same kennel and same strain but who have no common ancestors closer than
four or five generations behind them.
"Inbreeding" condenses the
genetic pool and because they are the most closely related genetically the
chances of the results being very good or VERY BAD are good and should not
be attempted by an amateur.
Inbreeding, which I call "test breeding"
is the only way to sort out faults and virtues. Whether the results are
good or bad will depend on the type of stock you start with, because
inbreeding cannot create good or bad points. It merely uncovers them. When
results of inbreeding are disappointing, don't run to an outcross to try
to solve your problems, since you will only bring in more covered-up
problems. Stick it out and keep culling the results, and don't overlook a
fault, because inbreeding merely intensifies a fault and makes it worse.
For instance, an Outcross gives you a 1 to 1000 ratio of finding the good
or bad and Inbreeding brings the chances down to 1 to 30.
You must
start with good sound stock and learn as much as possible about it. Only
the offspring are the proof of what you can learn. The longer you inbreed,
the more alike the offspring will become, but don't hesitate to eliminate
from your breeding program those dogs or bitches that throw serious
faults.
This latter problem is where many mistakes are made and
secrets are kept from new breeders. If a valuable stud or bitch begins to
throw serious hereditary problems within a line, they should be eliminated
from your breeding program. You are doing the breed a great injustice if
your attitude is ..." All I need is one good male in a litter and it
doesn't matter if the rest are lousy".
It does matter, and your actions may cause many people many
problems. The three accepted forms of inbreeding practiced by
most breeders are:
1) Mating sire to his daughter and producing stock
with 3/4 of the genetic makeup of the sire. This is to intensify his
qualities. 2) Mating the dam to her own son or sons successively. This
increases the genetic makeup of the dam. With a good brood, this promises
a lot. 3) Brother and sister mating, but this is the least promising,
since you are working with unknown quantities instead of the sire-and-dam
matings, where you already know what their offspring are like.
Ref: Hilary Harmers' "Dogs and How to Breed Them"
Is it best to have my pet
Yorkshire Terrier
neutered? |
Unless you are going to show or breed, yes,
it is best......for the males, it makes them better pets as they are not
leg lifting and leaving "calling cards" which do not smell too good in my
opinion. Spaying a female will decrease the change of mammary cancer
in the future, and similarly, neutering a male decrease the chance
testicular cancer. So yes, I would advise it for a pet.
Do I have to brush my
Yorkshire Terrier's teeth?
|
Some dogs teeth form
plaque faster than
others...and yes you should brush at least once a week with Nolvadent
(from your vet or supply house) and put a drop of glyoxide (from your
pharmacy) on either side of the mouth in back once a week and get a
scraper and learn how to scrape the teeth....Omaha Vet 1-800-367-4444 has
dental scrapers... that you must do every other month. If you don't
keep the teeth clean, they will develop periodontal disease...like the
dentist says...just floss the ones you want to keep.
My vet said my
Yorkshire Terrier has
patella
problem. What's that? |
Many toy dogs live their whole lives with luxating patella's and are never lame. A "luxating patella" would be best
described as a "trick knee" which can move out of place if injured by
jumping or walking in a hole in the ground, etc. Toy dogs are prone to
this because of their diminutive size. No matter how firm the knees seem
as puppies, toy dogs are liable to injure their knees depending on the
degree of luxation. The grooves in the knee where the knee fits is
sometimes shallow and the knees can be very wobbly. Most breeders do try
to breed away from this. The taller more fine-boned dogs seem to be more
prone to this kind of injury.
Sometimes, if the knee pops out and
stretches the ligaments that hold it in place, it becomes a chronic
problem and the dog becomes lame and in this case, the first treatment
would be to keep the dog crated for a week or two and supervise the
activity -- no jumping from furniture and up and down behind a gate on a
slippery floor, etc. Also in conjunction with that the dog should be given
prednisolone to take down the inflammation. My Vet suggests 1/2 of 5 mg
tablet 2 times a day for three days, 1/2 of 5 mg tablet one time per day
for three days and then 1/2 of 5 mg tablet every other day four times
during the crating convalescing time. Check with your Vet for the dosage
and this prescription medication. Usually this period of rest will be all
that is necessary to correct the situation.
Surgery is very seldom the
answer and should only be done by an orthopedic surgeon if the dog is
lame. My vet says that if surgery is done for a luxating patella on a dog
that is not lame, he can guarantee you that THAT dog will have problems
with arthritis from the surgery five years down the line. Many show dogs
have finished their title with at least one luxating patella.
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